28 Best Kept Secrets of Professional Painters

It’s not a secret that painting your home can be an expensive endeavor. But what if you didn’t have to break the bank just to get it done? Professional painters will tell you that they offer professional work for less than you might expect. So you won’t need to spend thousands of dollars to paint your home and still end up with professional quality results. In this blog post, we’ll discuss some of the best kept secrets for getting high-quality painting services at an affordable price!

Table of Contents

  • 29 Best Kept Secrets of Professional Painters
    • 1. Wait for dry weather
    • 2. Do a thorough visual inspection and prep
    • 3. Buy the best paint supplies
    • 4. Know your nap
    • 5. Paint the trim first, then the ceilings and walls
    • 6. Sand away flaws
    • 7. Protect anything you don’t want paint
    • 8. Go for high-quality tools
    • 9. Color from top to bottom
    • 10. Use tinted primer
    • 11. Press tape with a putty knife
    • 12. Consider liquid sandpaper
    • 13. Dust and vacuum thoroughly
    • 14. Eliminate brush and lap marks with paint Extender
    • 15. Scrape a ridge in textured ceilings
    • 16. Use canvas drop cloths
    • 17. Finish one wall before starting another
    • 18. Scrape (don’t tape) windows
    • 19. Mend the gaps
    • 20. Box paint for consistent color
    • 21. Buy an extra bucket or two
    • 22. Give wool blend cover
    • 23. Wash roller covers
    • 24. Use the light
    • 25. Clean dirty walls with degreaser
    • 26. Start with a loaded brush
    • 27. Push paint to avoid runs
    • 28. Wrap and come back
  • Tips for Cold Weather Painting
  • Should You Sand between Coats of Paint?
  • Do You Have to Sand Before Painting?
  • Should You Clean Walls Before Painting?

29 Best Kept Secrets of Professional Painters

1. Wait for dry weather

Stickiness implies dribbles and moderate drying, so abstain from painting on a wet day. Waiting for dry weather is best. If you should paint when it’s sticky, take as much time as necessary and exploit moderate drying paint to address your blunders before proceeding onward to the following coat. Be that as it may, don’t exhaust, or it is going to show when you finish the work.

2. Do a thorough visual inspection and prep

Any split, chipping, or stripping zones should be gently sanded or scratched before smearing new paint and primer because the heaviness of the fresh coat will pull the old paint-free. Do a thorough visual inspection and preparation; otherwise, you’ll simply wind up burning through your time and cash if you don’t handle that first. Greasy stains may likewise require a touch of washing with cleanser, trailed by a flush with hygienic water. Something else, give the dividers a snappy wipe-down with a soggy fabric so the shade will have a spotless, without dust surface to adhere. The preparation work will be easier if you have an idea of how much paint you need for your project.

3. Buy the best paint supplies

Don’t buy cheap brushes. If you use that plastic kind of brush, the paint on the wall will look as if you just smudged it using a rake. And the bristles come out of the brushes ad sticks to the wall with paint. So buy the best paint supplies. You can use a two-one or two inches bent brush. That brush is adaptable, and you can rewash and use it again and again. And you also need the best paints. Because it is going to give you the most exceptional coverage. It’ll keep going quite a while. You’ll have the option to wash a grimy unique mark off the wall without taking the shade off. Also, your entire work will simply go snappier and simpler.

4. Know your nap

The more surface your dividers have, the denser the nap you’ll need on your roller spread with the goal that it can venture into the cleft and give total inclusion. So know your naps. Or else, if you make it excessively thick, you may make a surface where you don’t need it, so be set up to give your sales rep insights concerning what you’re coloring.

5. Paint the trim first, then the ceilings and walls

Professionals paint the trim first, and then they go for the ceilings and walls. Because it’s simpler to taping off the trim than to tape off the dividers. Also, you absolutely would prefer not to tape both of them off. Painting the trim, you don’t need to be slick. Simply focus on getting a smooth completion on the wooden surface. Try not to stress if the entryway and trim paint get slopped onto the dividers. You can give it coverage later when painting dividers. When the trim gets painted and dehydrated, tape it and, at that point, color the roof, proceed to divider painting.

Do you like to learn one of the greatest paint secret? So, watch out the video below about what to paint first

6. Sand away flaws

Sand away the flaws just begin with a splendidly smooth surface to wind up with consummately painted dividers or woodwork pieces. Sand the dividers from the baseboard to the roof with a fine-coarseness sanding paper on a sanding post. At that point, sand on a level plane along the baseboard and ceiling. Try not to squeeze the sanding post. Sanding levels outs joint-compound fixes and straightens edges around nail gaps. Sanding likewise expels husks and harsh stains in your slender.

The present premium paints stream on effectively, and you’ve just picked a decent roller spread, so there’s no compelling reason to utilize a lot of weight. Ensure that you use an extension pole so you can arrive at the most extreme measure of territory with the least exertion and without stressing your backside bones. It is essential for professional painters to have a clear idea about wet vs dry sanding. Because in the paint job, choosing the proper sanding technique is considered an important issue.

7. Protect anything you don’t want paint

If you take the furniture out of your room, just bring them to the middle of the room and wrap them with some plastic sheets and tape them at the bottom. It can protect anything that you don’t want to get painted.

8. Go for high-quality tools

In case you’re spending lavishly on extraordinary paint, you certainly would prefer not to keep a tight budget on the solicitation.  Go for high-quality tools. Roller covers and decent brushes give unique inclusion with the goal that you don’t sit around idly and paint on re-applying, and top of the line painter’s tape is the genuine article with regards to fixing out dribbles and foggy spots.

9. Color from top to bottom

After cutting in your edges at the baseboard and ceiling utilizing a brush, use your roller to apply paint from the roof descending—color from top to bottom. Beginners frequently have obvious dribbles and scatter toward the finish of paintwork, yet professionals paint directly over their mix-ups when they work on downward to the divider. When a region begins to dry, it’s ideal to disregard it. Returning over, it can leave stamps and shading streaks in the paint’s outer part.

10. Use tinted primer

Professionals fill the patches and gaps on the wall with a compound joint before painting. But if you put the paint directly, the composite will suck the moisture, and it will look dampen. So prime the walls if you want to avoid it. Don’t use a white primer; instead, use tinted grey or any other color that matches the finishing place. Tinted primer gives coverage to the left dull color rather than an ordinary wall primer. Now the finishing coat will get more vivacious. It is particularly evident with hues like orange or red, which may require at least three layers without that primer.

11. Press tape with a putty knife

Nothing is more disheartening when you’ve polished artwork than to strip tape off the wood and find the paint seeped through, so if you don’t want the neck pain. Apply the tape on the woodwork and then take a putty knife and run it all over topmost to pressing that tape to get a good seal.

Utilize the blue painter’s tape as opposed to concealing tape. Covering tape can abandon a clingy buildup that is difficult to wipe off. Paint can make the tape get clasp, which lets the color to run underneath it. You can leave the painters tape for a considerable length of time and still strip off neatly. Furthermore, it stops the paint seep without clasping.

12. Consider liquid sandpaper

When you finished vacuuming and sanding on the final stage, just go an extra step forward and wipe the wooden surface using liquid sandpaper. Professionals always consider liquid sandpaper. It will make sure good bonding by following those steps. If you are dealing with the lead paint, then this can replace it with sanding.

13. Dust and vacuum thoroughly

When you just completed with your sanding and scratching work. Take an old paintbrush and dust off all the regions. After that, vacuum the wooden surface by attaching it with a brush.

14. Eliminate brush and lap marks with paint Extender

Only a professional painter knows the secret to the finishing part where you can get free of lap marks, which mix up with the pain extender. You can call it a paint conditioner too. It completes the two best things. To start with, it hinders the paint ventilation time, gives you a more drawn out window to cover simply painted territories without getting appalling lap denotes that happen when you paint over dehydrated paint and obscure the shading. Second, wash extender levels out the color so that brush strokes can get out.

15. Scrape a ridge in textured ceilings

It is a problem when you paint within the ridge of textured ceilings is that it is not possible to get straightly within the highest point of the divider without receiving paint on the roof knocks. Make a screwdriver run along the border of the roof to scratch off the surface. It lets you cut it in without color on the roof surface. Then the screwdriver makes a little edge in the ceiling so that the tips of your paint quills typically go inside it. Also, you’ll never, at any point, notice the missing surface.

16. Use canvas drop cloths

Professionals never use bed sheets like a drop cloth, and you should not too. Work like a professional and use canvas drop cloths. They’re not elusive, and they retain splatters. Except if you’re painting a roof, you needn’t bother with a king-sized size fabric that occupies the whole room. A canvas drop cloth that is only a couple of feet wide and runs the distance of the divider is perfect for ensuring your floor, and moving is easy.

17. Finish one wall before starting another

Professionals get a smooth look by finishing one wall before starting another one. It permits the brushed and the moved paint to mix better.

Spread your paint pail, plate, or compartment with a wet towel when exchanging among brushing and moving to shield your paint and apparatuses from dehydrating out when not being used.

18. Scrape (don’t tape) windows

Don’t tape the windows when the painting girdles. It requires some investment and paints as a rule winds up on the glass at any rate. Feel free to let paint jump on the glass. When it’s dry, just scratch it off with extremely sharp steel. The paint strips off in a flash. Be mindful not to break the paint bond among the glass and wood.

19. Mend the gaps

If you think that the fresh paint is going to seal the little gaps, it is wrong. That new hue will show the defects even more. Fill the tiny holes in. Mend the differences using spackle compound. If there is a deep hole, you can use an epoxy wood filling. It’s to a higher degree a problem to utilize, and you ordinarily wind up discarding a ton of mostly solidified fille. Yet, the fix will be sufficiently hard to take a ton of maltreatment without dropping out.

20. Box paint for consistent color

The similar color of paint can vary amongst the can of color. Make sure the shading consistency through and through; geniuses blend their jars of paint in a 5-gallon basin.

And after that, paint straightforwardly out of the container. It takes out the need to empty paint into a roller plate; however, the sturdy bucket is more diligently to move.

21. Buy an extra bucket or two

Always buy an extra bucket or, if needed, buy two. Because, except if you get extraordinarily propelled, you’re not getting the newly shaken paint for the length of your venture. What’s more, you can’t breathe life into settled color back with a mixing stick alone. You need to dispense the paint to and fro between two pails until you’ve scratched and blended the solids at the base. Remarkably just, approach to guarantee your paint gets mixed. Also, if you got the colors in a few clear jars, you need to blend those, as well, to ensure the whole thing is even.

22. Give wool blend cover

Roller cover is the most critical part of your painting. Don’t go for a cheap roller cover; instead, go for the wool blend roller cover. Cheap roller cover does not hold sufficient paint, and it can give you lap marks. Buy a one or two-in wool blend cover roller. You will not have to run to the shop, and this is going to be the last one.

Woolen covers do have a couple of disadvantages, however. They will work in general shed filaments when they get initially utilized. To limit detaching, wrap the roller spread with veiling tape and strip it off to evacuate free lamps. Rehash this a couple of times. Woolen covers likewise will, in general, become tangled down if you apply an excessive amount of weight through painting. Moving requests a light touch. Regardless of what roller spread you’re utilizing, consistently let the paint accomplish the work. Hold the roller spread stacked with color, and use just enough strain to discharge and smear the paint. If you push on the roller to crush out the final drop of paint will just aim issues.

23. Wash roller covers

What if you buy the costly or cheap roller covers always wash them before using them when it is new. It makes you get free of the fluff that unavoidably falls off once you begin painting. Wash it with water and a smidgen of fluid cleanser, and run your hands here, and there the spreads to pull off any free strands. You can begin utilizing the roller covers immediately, and you don’t have to allow them to dry.

24. Use the light

Professionals use work light to get better work. i.e., you missed a place where you did not know. It’s not hard to do, especially with near tones. Get yourself a work light to check it, one or the other when you go through or when you get done with a region. The main areas will be nearby the edges, where you utilize a paintbrush as opposed to a roller.

25. Clean dirty walls with degreaser

Paint and grease don’t have good bonding- Like kitchen dividers over an oven or the regions around switches that get knocked with grimy hands. Utilize a degreaser to clean moldy or oily surfaces; it slices through nearly anything you have on dividers for better paint attachment. Can you paint over mold? The answer is no. Explore this article to know about removing mold. 

26. Start with a loaded brush

Load the brushes like under 2 inches with paints. It is good to start with a loaded brush. Pat each side compared within their compartment to knock off the overwhelming trickles, and afterward begin painting. Individuals regularly take a “heap and dump” approach of hauling the stacked brush at the edges of their holder and clearing off a large portion of the paint.

27. Push paint to avoid runs

The time your paintbrush loads with paint, it’s anything but difficult to make runs by applying a lot of colors in corners or along with the trim.

If you want to avoid runs, then start push paint. Begin brushing around a one-two inch gone from the slice in the zone to smear the paint. When the brush empties, move there and gradually slog the brush with the corner. The fibers will delicately push the color in opposite to the break-in zone where the dividers meet. You may need to do this multiple times to get total inclusion, yet it’ll stay away from abundance paint along in corners and with woodwork.

28. Wrap and come back

At the point when you get prepared to consider it daily, you can absorb your roller paint and afterward envelop it by a plastic sack, so it’s water/air proof. In case you’re coming back to the activity the following day that will work fine. Whether it is for some periods, you can wrap and come back. At that point, utilize another roller whenever. Concerning your costly brush, you can clean that out—assuming you’re using water-based latex paint. Slog a hose to an off the beaten path spot and clean the paintbrush while, on the other hand, wrapping it against the base of your boots to jiggle out the fibers. Keep doing that until it’s spotless, and it’ll be all set whenever you steel your mental fortitude to handle an additional room.

Tips for Cold Weather Painting

tips for cold weather paintingtips for cold weather painting

In recent years, various paint organizations have created latex paints that will fix at temperatures underneath 50º F in this manner, permitting painters to expand their outside composition season. You can diminish the odds of encountering these impacts by consolidating the accompanying tips into your artwork venture.


Decide the climate design for the days you are going to shade. Chilly climate paints may take as long as two days to dehydrate and keep the base temperature up during this time span.


Both substrate and air temperatures ought to be over the predetermined essentials.


Concentrate on prepared work in the first morning and the evening, and put on paint between 09 a.m., what’s more, 1 p.


Pursue the sun around the house when you get to your work. Stop workaround mid-evening, or when the temperature starts to decrease.

Pro Tips

Should You Sand between Coats of Paint?

Regardless of how cautious you will be, you can typically discover bubbles or edges or a couple of bits of residue and build up in a new layer of paint or groundwork. For the smoothest conceivable topcoat, hand sand the whole door after when you just primed and in between the coats of paint. It might appear to be a great deal of work; however, it shouldn’t take over five minutes when the entryway is level on the sawhorses. Sand with non-obstructing (180-220) coarseness sandpaper or sanding wipes. Sand sufficiently only to cause the surface to feel even. In the wake of sanding, vacuum and rub-down the entryway with a soggy material to evacuate all the residue.

Do You Have to Sand Before Painting?

Sanding is not necessary for each paint venture, unpleasant spots on dividers, regardless of whether it got recently painted. It should get sanded before they get painted to guarantee the paint goes on quickly. Use a sanding block or sandpaper to overcast any irregular exteriors, rub away the residue with a clammy material, and let it dry completely.

Check out the video below to learn more about painting hacks!

Bonus Tips

Should You Clean Walls Before Painting?

Before painting, always clean the walls with a heavy-duty cleaner. It functions admirably to varnished, enameled surfaces or to clean painted to improve the grip of the fresh color. They’re perfect for cleansing oily or slick regions like kitchen and restroom dividers and expelling hand checks around switches and door handles. Apply on the cleaner in a roundabout movement utilizing a buildup free material or grating cushion. Start at the base and work. When the surface is perfect, fill in any scratches and openings; at that point, sand those smoothly before painting dividers.

Final Words

When it comes to painting a house’s outside does something significantly beyond make it look enhanced? Legitimate paintwork likewise ensures the home by setting a protection obstruction against water and wind and other climate dangers. With the money and time-related speculation engaged with this home development venture, care ought to take to ensure it is done accurately and with ideal resources. It is going to drag out the time until your home should get painted once more

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.